Tarangire — “Lion, where are you?”
At nine, they left Kundayo Serviced Apartments for Tarangire. Maso had already noticed how much Leonie resembled Renee. Even their voices sounded alike.
Renske spent day one spotting animals, never once asking for toys or to leave her car seat. Her regular call: “Leeuw, waar ben je?” Lion, where are you? That evening, hyenas called outside their tent at Burunge. She finally fell asleep at nine.
Burunge Tented Camp meant getting up for sunrise over Lake Burungi, followed by breakfast overlooking a huge herd of elephants. Later, Jaap spotted two lions in the river, and Pake had a sighting too.
Beppe summed up Tarangire perfectly: “It’s like being in a 3D film. You can’t believe what you’re seeing.”
Afternoons ended with cocktails and swimming. Beppe’s suggestion for their own lodge: somewhere by the water.
She did briefly lose the car after a toilet stop, but still preferred nearby wildlife to driving through Arusha after dark. Jaap’s plans for his telescope, meanwhile, faced two obstacles: clouds and monkeys.
Pake and Beppe loved being called Babu and Bibi. Renske enjoyed high fives, fist bumps and “Lala salama” from the security staff walking them back to their tent. She was saying “Hakuna Matata” herself now, too. Being picked up by strangers? Absolutely not.
Karatu — Follow the fallen sign
After breakfast on day three, Burunge’s manager gave them a behind-the-scenes tour, with plenty to think about for their own lodge. They also contacted owner Mr Williams Chambulo about visiting him at home in Karatu.
Next stop: Safariland for lunch, souvenirs and iced coffees, where they met Simon, a logistics manager and friend of Johnson. Jaap ordered a cocktail instead. They also browsed the tanzanite, although even the smallest stone cost $200.
Then it was past Mto wa Mbu and through Rhotia Valley towards Karatu Simba Lodge. Google Maps had other ideas. Local directions helped; a fallen sign finally settled it after Wiseman got out to check.
At Simba Lodge, there was time for swimming and cocktails. Jaap also set up his telescope for the first time on the trip and took some photos.
Johnson fitted in a car repair, a haircut and a quick hello to his grandmother, Bibi Dora. They planned to visit her together after the safari.
Serengeti — Apparently, we’re leaving
Day four’s early start did little for Renske’s mood. Central Serengeti made a stronger impression: elephants, lions, a leopard, a cheetah with a cub, a hippo, a crocodile and a hyena. Quite a welcome.
Breakfast the next morning was at six, watching the sun rise over the Serengeti. A beautiful start, even at that hour.
Then Jaap, Leonie, Pake and Beppe arrived at the car without their bags. They thought they were staying another night. Johnson wondered where their luggage was. They were leaving for the north.
A small detail. Back to the tents.
The next stop was Camp Zebra, this time for two nights. That morning brought another cheetah with cubs, busy eating. Beppe’s report: “One antelope fewer. We’re so close you can hear the bones crunch.”
In the north, the plan was to follow the Mara River, head towards the Kenyan border and hopefully spot a crossing. They arrived just as one began. Later, they heard it was the only crossing that day.
Leonie spotted lions by the river too. Sharing them with Renee over FaceTime proved less successful.
Renske had her own evening schedule. The first night, she fell asleep on Leonie’s lap by the campfire, so they headed to their tent. The second evening, the camp made them an early dinner. Overnight came hyenas, rain and thunder. Excellent sleeping weather, apparently.
Lake Masek — Was that a hippo?
At eight the next morning, they left Camp Zebra for Lake Masek in the southern Serengeti. Along the way: a warthog with tiny piglets, hyenas, flamingos, hippos and a crocodile. On arrival, everyone was ready for the pool.
That night, the hippos came closer.
Jaap messaged that two were walking around the tent. Beppe went to look but saw nothing. The only snoring came from Pake.
Later, she heard grazing and stepped onto the deck. There, right beside the tent, stood a large hippo.
“Now I understand why the tent is on stilts. Luckily, he’s too heavy for the steps.”
She quietly unzipped the tent and slipped back inside. Enough investigating for one evening.
Back to Karatu
The route to Ngorongoro Farmhouse took them past Maasai villages, with a stop at the Ngorongoro viewpoint. On the way out, everything had been hidden in cloud. This time, they could enjoy the view towards Karatu.
At Farmhouse, the programme was familiar: pool time, a nap for Renske, then happy hour and dinner.
Ngorongoro — Seven rhinos. One “no.”
On Sunday 25 October, while Dora turned two back home, the safari crew explored the Ngorongoro Crater.
They spotted seven rhinos. Seven.
Renske enjoyed looking at animals, but the significance of this particular sighting escaped her. When Leonie and Jaap asked whether she wanted to look at the rhinos, her answer was clear.
“No.”
At lunch, a marabou stork kept a close eye on their food. A nearby sign warned visitors not to go any further because of hippos. Everyone stayed in the car except Beppe, who was already nearly at the water. Johnson hurried after her.
Apparently, she hadn’t quite finished investigating hippos after all.
Meanwhile, back home
Dora had celebrated at nursery ahead of her second birthday and was moving up to the toddler group. Big developments on both continents.
Renee was arranging an online meeting with Selma at Makasa Safaris for November. Leonie and Renee’s mum helped Renee clean the rental accommodations on the campsite, mostly booked at weekends. Their dad kept trying to mow the grass. If only it would dry.
With the safari drawing to a close, attention was turning back to their lodge plans. Their first impressions of Karatu were good, and they were looking forward to viewing plots. The Black Rhino Academy visit was confirmed for 27 October, with Pake and Beppe welcome too.
And Renske? Plenty of pancakes. Plenty of apples.
Still asking for Dutch cheese.